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Knit-A-Long

Very Very Very Easy Fingerless Mitts

This pattern is the easiest fingerless mitt that I know of.  For those of you who do not like double pointed needles or knitting in the round on two circular needles, these are for you.  They are knitted two at a time, flat, on a 24” circular needle.  You knit with 2 separate balls of yarn and knit back and fourth on the needle.  All the while letting the yarn do the fancy work for you.  In this case I used a yarn that knits into a Fair Isle pattern all on its own.  You could use yarn that changes colors in stripes or fades in and out on the colors.  You could also add a fluffy yarn (mohair or angora) to the main part of the mittens or knit the ribbing in one color and the main part in another.  While the basic pattern calls for a stockinet stitch you could add in your own pattern (double moss, seed stitch, basket stitch) or run a cable up the back of each mitten.  Let your imagination run wild!!!!  I call these a movie and a half project.  If you are a slower relaxed knitter it might take you two movies.  I plan to make five or six pairs of these over the next few months and put them in a drawer to save for that unexpected birthday or guest at the Christmas table.  So here we go.

Materials:

180 yards of Worsted Weight Yarn

Size 8 Circular needle, at least 24” long

Gage:  4.5 stitches per inch

Split yarn into two equal balls.  Cast on 40 sts with each ball.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit in rib stitch for 2”.  In this case I use k2, p2.

Once you have knit four or five rows, use a locking stitch marker or a safety pin the clip the middle edge of the mittens together.  This helps to stop you from knitting on course so you don’t knit back on one mitten making that one 2 rows longer then the other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On next row start with stockinet stitch and increase 4 stitches across first row of each piece.  Knit in stockinet stitch until both pieces measure 7” from beginning or rib.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you mittens measure 7” from the beginning, decrease 4 stitches evenly across the last row. 

Then do your ribbing to match the begging rib for 1”.  Bind off all stitches.

Sew side of mitten together starting at 2” ribbing up for 5”.  Leave 1 ¼” opening for the thumb.  Then sew the remaining side up.  And You Are Done!

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I haven’t forgotten about our next project, I am just waiting to see if we can get permission to post the pattern on our web site.  If not it is a free pattern  that you can download.  We will give it a couple of more days and see what happens.

I haven’t heard back so for now go to Universal Yarns.com   You can go to their free patterns and get the High Effect Feather and Fan shawl.  You can also find it under the yarn type, Rozetti Yarns Soft Payette.

This project has a great deal of freedom, you can use the pattern and make a scarf, or follow the directions and make a shawl, or follow along with me and make a summer sweater.

The pattern is an 18 stitch repeat, so remember in what ever project you choose it must be in multiples of 18.

A scarf you would probably want to cast on 36.

The shawl you cast on 126.

If you are doing one of those patterns guage is probably not all that imprtant.  However is you want to do the sweater a swatch would be a good idea so you can calculate how many mutiples of 18 is going to work for you.

When I made a swatch and was happy with the look, I took my measurements, and divided by 18.  I went one step further and took back and front measurements.  I am not equal.  My back is smaller.  Five multiples of 18 is what I need for my back.  So I cast on 90 stitches and will work in pattern until I have the length I want for this sweater.  So I am on my way.

I marked each multiple just to help me keep the pattern simple.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the finished back of the sweater.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am casting on the front.  I have 3 patterns on each front.  I like working them at the same time.  Work the front pieces so they are the same length aas the back.  Have fun!

 OOPS, I am falling behind on our knit along.  I am sorry, I got side tracked by another project, want to have it finished by Friday.  Then I will be back on track.  I’m sorry.

Happy Knitting

When you have the fronts finished put them together at the shoulder.

 

 

 

 

 

Mark for your armhole.  Remember to keep the stitche in multiple of 18.

With the right side facing pick up the stitches for your cap sleeve.  Remember to keep in multiples of 18.  You  can see I have 4 multiples.

I work the 4 pattern rows twice binding off on the second knit round.

Sew up the side seams.

Work in your ends.  Those of you who know me I actually did work in my ends.  I promise.

 

 

 

The finished project.  Hope that you enjoyed this knit-a-long as much as I did.

 

New one coming soon.  Jean is going to have us work on fingerless mitts.

Enjoy and Happy Knitting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Check out what caught our eye!

Here we go cast on 40 stitches, I like the cable cast on or knitted cast on.  I have given a more detailed explanation of each below. * Drawings taken from The Principles of Knitting 1988

Cable cast on

Cast on 2 sts

When you reach the end of the first row, the pattern says turn and cast on two stitches.  You use the cable cast on going between two stitches and putting the loop on the needle.  Or you can use the knit cast on transferring the loop to the needle.

Put a slip knot on your needle. This will be your first stitch.  Knit one stitch and transfer the new stitch to the left needle.  Take the right needle out and reinsert it into the new stitch.  Repeat this process until you have the cast on amount.  In this case 40.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cable Cast on.  This is done the same as knitted cast on, the difference is your going between the stitches not into them.

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat rows 1-4  until there are 72 stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve worked about 2 hours.  We are at 104 stitches and now we are going to work with no indcreases to row 80. (4 comlete patterns)

 

 

 

Here it is Friday morning, and I’m moving right along on this project.  I am having a lot of fun with it and I hope you are too.

We have reached row 80.

 

 

 

 

 

We are now ready to divide for the neck.

K4, p4, four times end with K4 (36)sts.  Put next 32 stitches on a stitch holder.  Attach a second ball of yarn an continues in pattern.(36sts)

Work these two sides until you get to row 140.

Enjoy!

 We are ready to start the fingers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A hint on working the fingers is knitting backwards.  When you are ready to do a purl row, study where your needle is and yarn, then turn to the knit side and work that purl.  It takes some getting use to but once you do no more turning and turning.  This technique works well with short rows too.

I’m so sorry I haven’t posted new pictures, they dissapeared from my camera/computer.  I will take pictures tomorrow of the next steps.  I am sorry.

The fingers have been woven here.  You have all of the fingers made.  you work on one side knitting the fingers and end together then you weave to get this look.

 

 

One side is finished.  the fingers are woven, the other side is now getting worked.

 

 

 

 

This is the edging used along the sides.  It is a picot bind off.  You cast on2 stitches and bind off 4.

 

 

 

Here we are picking up around the neck.  Then we will start the I chord bind off

 

 

 

 

We have picked up the stitches around the neck.

Now we are going to cut the yarn and go back to the beginning , cast on 3 sts at the beginning.  Knit 2 sts, knit 2 tog through the back loop.  Slip the 3 stitches on your right needle to the left and cont, until yu have 3 sts then bind off. Secure the I-chord ends togerther.

The ugly job of weaving in ends follows.  To block just wet or steam and lay flat to dry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed this project.

 

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